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Q “I have heard that spraying your face with water or toner after applying makeup is a good idea. What do you think?”

A It is not necessary to spray your face with water or toner after make-up, however, if applied very lightly it can provide a more dewy look. I usually advise not to spritz because mascara, eyeliner, foundation, powder and make-up can streak and separate. If you do spray, hold the bottle at least 16 inches away from your face.

Q “How do I get rid of the redness on my face?”

A Redness can be the result of a few things: dryness, irritation or a skin disorder. If you are not using a moisturizer or if your moisturizer is too light, your skin might be thirsty for some. Also, take notice as to any new products that you are using on your face, a new detergent, or any hormonal changes. If you have not tried anything new and are not going through any hormonal changes, then you can finally check with a dermatologist. There are topical lotions/creams that will help calm the skin and treat such skin conditions. Using a concealer under foundation can hide redness. It also helps to have the correct foundation to cover the redness without changing the color of your skin. That is why I highly recommend custom blend foundation and powders.

Q “How do I get rid of dark circles?”

A Dark circles can be the result of lack of sleep, stress, staring at the computer for long periods of time, not drinking enough water, working late hours and heredity. All of these can be minimized and controlled except for heredity. Concealing dark circles requires a light and dark shade of concealer blending the two colors back and forth. The GIELLA concealer is available in shades #1, #2, and #3 and are best used with Brush #10. Many people think it is best to use the lightest color to cover darkness, however, this will usually just highlight the darkness and look worse. So take a little #3 concealer and place it on the darkness, then lighten it up with #1 or #2. If it still appears light, apply some more of #3, and if it still appears dark, apply some more of #1 or #2. Blending the colors will really help conceal the darkness and look natural.

Q “What are AHA’s”

A AHAs are alpha-hydroxy acids (fruit acids) and they are the big umbrella group of fruit acids. There are many different types of fruit acids such as glycolic acid (the most popular) made from sugar cane, malic acid made from apples, citric acid made from lemon and limes, lactic acid made from sour milk and Kojic acid made from mushrooms. Glycolic acid, being the most popular, and recommended by many dermatologists has many benefits. It is helpful in improving skin texture and smoothness, pigmentation problems and will lighten dark spots from aging, sun or blemishes, controlling excessive oiliness, unclogging pores, and minimizing ingrown hairs.

Most dermatologists will recommend an AHA for controlling acne or for treating fine lines and wrinkles. It is recommended that the glycolic acid be a 10% or higher; anything less is not effective. So ask what percentage of glycolic acid is in a particular cream before you buy it. If it is unknown avoid it. It is also helpful to know the pH level, which tells how active the ingredient is in the cream. Seven is the lowest and 1 is the highest. The GIELLA AHA or glycolic treatment (Renouveau) contains a 10% glycolic acid with a pH of a 3.8%. It also contains Japanese Green Tea, which is an anti-inflammatory that calms the skin and helps with irritations. It is a very good seller and many of our clients see results after using it.

Q “Do you recommend white pencil in the inner lower lid of my eye?”

A White pencils are a great trick for brightening the eye and taking away the red. It is best if applied lightly on the inside of the eye otherwise it can look a little scary. Another choice would be to use a beige or flesh tone pencil. It is not as stark as white and does the same trick of keeping the whites of the eye white.

Q “If I use retin-A, can I use AHA’s or glycolic acid?”

A Yes, dermatologists do recommend using retin-A and glycolic acid together. You can use them together or alternate days. For instance, you can alternate using retin-A one night and glycolic acid another night; or you can use retin-A at night and glycolic acid in the morning. If you do use them together, apply the retin-A first, and then the glycolic acid cream over it. Please remember to always use sunscreen when using both retin-A and glycolic acid, of SPF 15 or higher.

Q “I have dry skin and small white bumps on my cheeks and under eye area that look like pimples but are hard and cannot be removed. What can I do?”

A These small white bumps are probably millia, and they are painful. Millia are tiny sebum-filled cysts near the surface of the skin. Though these cysts generally occur in those with oily, acne-prone skin, they occasionally show up on women with dry skin. The probable cause is the buildup of greasy moisturizers or cleansers that are too emollient and contain pore-clogging ingredients. Wearing glasses can also cause a ridge of white bumps where the frame contacts the skin. The rubbing stimulates the oil glands, creating the cysts. These bumps aren't easy to remove on your own, especially if they are near your eyes. Either an optomologist or dermatologist can remove them. To avoid having the bumps come back find a pair of glasses that does not rest on the face and eliminate heavy, thick moisturizers and cleansers from your skin.

Q “I have been noticing that my neck has been looking lined, darker than my face, and just more crepey than before. What can I do?”

A Like the face, the neck and chest get a lot of sun exposure and are subject to the same ravages of sun damage. That is why the same products and routine you use on your face are appropriate for your neck and chest. A gentle cleanser, sunscreen with avobenzone, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; retin-A or renova; a well-formulated AHA product; and a lightweight moisturizer are the best options possible. Just simply carry your facial routine down to your neck area both day and night.

Q “I am a brunette with fair skin. What colors do you recommend for me?”

A Colors are really generic. You can wear any color, as long as it has the correct depth, undertone and intensity. For instance, if you have dark hair and fair skin, you would fall into one of our categories called CPD. A CPD would look best in colors that have depth and have medium to dark intensity. By this, I mean that light (pastels) and muted (khaki, beige or olive) colors will not be your best choice. You need high contrast because your hair and skin color have a high contrast; so deeper browns, blues, reds, greens and grays are better for you. For example, a deeper orange would look more like a rust or sienna color rather than a pumpkin orange. So experiment with different colors but remember deeper colors are best for you. If you send us a picture, we will be better able to recommend specific foundation, blush, lip and eye colors.

Q “What are the best colors for green eyes?”

A Opposite green on the color wheel is red-violet so coppers, plums, pinks and brownish-plums are great choices to “pop” the green in your eyes.

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